The only 3 Foil Highlight angles 

Foil Highlighting in hair was invented many decades ago by Vidal Sassoon’s lead colourist Annie Humphries. She worked with Vidal himself and loved to colour the cut. In the era of streaking cap highlights, the Mother of Modern Highlights developed multiple techniques to create customised colour.

Modern Colourists have a lot to thank Annie for. Shine lines, hairline foils, multi-tone tinted foils, highlights and lowlights…. And the list goes on and on! IF you did a little research on the history of foiling all pathways lead to Annie. And I am providing you with my 3rd generation knowledge from her with techniques I use every day for success to foil and know-why. Because I was trained by Australia’s first lady of colour Alyson Schoer, and she was trained by Annie. I love to foil because the possibilities are endless, which I admit can make it seem confusing sometimes with what technique to choose for which client. I want to share with you the only 3 foil angles you will ever need to know.

My Show notes

the only 3 angles you need to know when foiling hair

There are only 3 angles in foiling:

• Horizontal
• Vertical
• Diagonal (45 degree angle equals a “true diagonal” in hair colouring)

foil and know why

Diagonal is the most common used for texture and dimension:

• Suits layered hair
• Creates movement
• Softer regrowth. Can be used for a quicker application of scattered full heads when pressed for time. One of my personal favourites to meet client requests for a full head in half the time of their usual classic full head service.
• Hairstyles that suit a diagonal placement of foils on the hairline are layered cuts or hair that gets worn to several different partings.

Vertical is fabulous for high impact hairlines when tracing the face line. And is highly reccomended for:

• Vertical can also be used in areas of the head to create a ribbon like pieces of hair
• Vertical will look the strongest of all angles
• Just a few back to back slices of Vertical  will create a bold pop of  noticeable colour
• Hairstyles that suit a vertical hairline – any client that likes to slick their hair back off their face for upstyles or tuck their hair behind their hair.
• Vertical hairline foils create a noticeably high impact blonde around the face that looks great on the day of colour and future proofs incredible well. No stripes here! 

Horizontal is for the classic client that wants as much colour as possible from foils (you know the one):

• Horizontal foils builds strong colour
• Horizontal foils work best if needing a lot of colour – growing out tints or for blondaholics
• Horizontal to the parting on top layers is the best choice for today's trend of highlights and lowlights or if wanting to transition from a full head bleach to something softer. This blurs the sold line of a solid colour growing out much better than any other angle.
• Horizontal stacked up from nape to parting can create an unwanted stripe on faceline, so only choose horizontal foils on hairline if client wears it in a short bob. 

If after listening to this episode you understand what angle you need but you’re not sure what your client is looking for I suggest listening to past episode 7 on Confident Consultations with a “shared reality” between hairdresser and client.