Copper Hair Colour Formulas: A Guide from Levels 1 to 10

Achieving that perfect, fiery Level 7 orange copper can be a bit of a journey, especially when starting from different hair colours. In this episode of the Colour Kristina Talks Podcast for Hairdressers, Stylists, and Salon Owners, we’re diving into one of my absolute favourite topics: Copper Hair Colour Formulas for All Natural Levels!

I know how challenging it can be when you're working with different base levels, especially when you want to achieve that vibrant, glowing copper. In this fast-tips episode, we’ll break down colour formulas for natural levels 1 through 10, from the darkest brunette to the lightest blonde. Plus, I'll share how to get your formulas right every time to give your clients stunning copper transformations

Show notes for episode 183

Levels 1-3 — Pre-bleaching for Copper

Let’s start with the darkest natural levels—Levels 1, 2, and 3. These are the deepest, darkest bases, and when you're working with them, you cannot skip pre-lightening.

• Why Pre-bleaching?
  The natural pigment in levels 1-3 is so intense that copper tones simply won’t show up without lifting out some of that pigment first.
• What to Do: I recommend using blue powder bleach and either 20 or 30 volume developer, depending on the hair’s condition. For hair at these levels, you’re going to want to lift to about Level 7 or 8 to get the copper to pop. After you’ve lifted to the desired level, tone with a 7.43 (copper-gold) or a mix of 7.44 (intense copper) for extra vibrancy.

Level 4 — High-Lift Tint Option for Copper

Moving on to Level 4, a rich dark brown that can benefit from pre-lightening, but without needing a full bleach.

• Why High-Lift?
  For clients with Level 4 hair, you can often achieve great copper results using a high-lift copper tint instead of full bleach. This is great for minimizing damage while still getting a vibrant result.
• What to Do:
  Use a high-lift copper tint—something like 12.43 (high-lift copper-gold) or 12.0 (natural) —with 30 or 40 volume developer. You’re aiming to lift to around Level 8, and from there, you can tone with a copper-gold shade to really bring that warmth to life. Remember, high-lift tints work best on natural (virgin) hair!

Levels 5-6 — Ready for Copper Tinting

For Levels 5 and 6, you're in prime territory for copper colouring without needing heavy lifting. The base is light enough to deposit copper tones directly with the right formula.

• What to Do:
  Use a Level 7.43 (copper-gold) formula with 20 volume developer to achieve a rich copper. If you want to amp up the vibrancy, I recommend adding a touch of 7.44 to the mix. For thicker or resistant hair, consider using 30 volume developer to ensure proper lift and deposit.
• Pro Tip: For clients with regrowth longer than 6 weeks or previously coloured hair, pre-lighten the ends slightly with blue powder bleach and 10 vol before applying your copper tint. This helps avoid “hot roots” or a mismatch between roots and ends.

Levels 7-8 — Simple Tonal Adjustment for Copper

Now, if your client is a natural Level 7 or 8, you’re in luck! These levels are already light enough to take on copper beautifully with minimal lifting.

• What to Do:
  You’ll want to focus on tonal adjustment here. Use a Level 8 copper or Level 7.44 (intense copper) with 20 volume developer for rich deposit without too much lift. These levels are perfect for achieving vibrant, fiery copper with ease.
• Pro Tip: After applying your formula, add a custom copper toning treatment at the basin to intensify the copper hue and give it extra shine.

Listen to episode 183 of the Colour Kristina Talks Podcast to learn more about Copper Hair Colour Formulas.