How to prevent Glazes and Toners from fading quickly

Let’s get colour geeky in this episode and discuss the ins and outs of long lasting toners. This is a worldwide conversation that has so many different opinions in it, and some truths out there based on techniques and strategies that work versus fear based decisions that might give you hit and miss or inconsistent results.

Toning hair used to freak me out!

Have you ever walked past the shampoo bowl and freaked out your 9 level violet or blue based platinum toner looked black? I think every colourist has done this at least once, if not 100 times in their career…. And how about toning for red and copper clients and ending up with a brownish red instead of Auburn? Have you seen that happen in the salon? Or perhaps you’ve received that dreaded phone call from an unhappy client within a week or so because their toner or glaze has faded too quickly, or its completely goine in their opinion, or with one wash its not what they wanted and they left the salon happy. Sounds familiar? That’ because it is and it has happened to all of us.

Show notes for episode 111

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glaze strategies for Blondes, Brunettes and Redheads

This podcast is broken down into into why a toner would fade too quickly for the 3 different client categories of blondes, brunettes and redheads and how to prevent that with pro tips and proven strategies that I follow in my salon business.

PRO TIPS FOR BLONDE GLAZE FADE PREVENTION:

• Ash toners will always appear darker whilst processing, so dont freak out! 
• Adapt your formula to be more diluted in pigment to allow it to process for the full time, completely develop the pigment and last longer than applying a “flash fast” toner.
• Visual toning is harder to repeat for success each time unless you track the timing and record if for next time, or you want the longevity for your clients with predictable fade.

PRO TIPS FOR BRUNETTE GLAZE FADE PREVENTION:

• Brunettes are easiest to tone because you pick the level and the reflect and apply
• The reasons for toning a brunette could be sun fade or hair looking a little light or too brassy, so in this case, just choose your level required if going darker and the reflect
• Lighter brunettes and Brondes might lack shine or appear greenish if previously blonde or balayage. In this case, choose a gold or iridescent gold to refresh the colour with darkening. Apply full time for long-lasting results.

PRO TIPS FOR REDS FADE PREVENTION:

• Redheads are a little trickier than brunettes or blondes when toning because of the unique levelling system with every haircolour level becoming a different tone.
• Did you know the red colour molecule is the smallest haircolour molecule of them all? That’s why it can be the quickest to fade! This is why you must formulate effectively and leave the colour to process for the full manufacturers recommendation to ensure long-lasting colour results for your clients.
• I suggest you tone ½ -1 level lighter on any red or copper base if seeking blended balayage effects to avoid harsh blends of totally different tones.

Listen to episode 111 of the Colour Kristina Talks Podcast to learn how to prevent glazes and toners fading quickly and why it’s not just based on time for processing.