The 5 Must-Know Copper Formulas for Every Brand You Need to Know

Achieving that perfect, fiery Level 7 orange copper can be a bit of a journey, especially when starting from different hair colours.
Imagine this: five clients walk into your salon, each with a different starting point. One is a bright blonde, another is rocking a deep brownish black, the third has luscious dark brown locks, the fourth is already a Level 7 but wants that extra copper kick, and the fifth has a stunning darker red. The challenge? They all want to walk out with that jaw-dropping Level 7 orange copper. Sounds like a colourful adventure, right?

Show notes for podcast episode 172

In this podcast episode, I share my top formulas and pro tips for transforming 5 different starting points into a show-stopping Level 7 copper. We’ll cover blonde to copper, Level 2 brownish black to copper, Level 5 dark brown to copper, Level 7 to Level 7 copper, and darker red to copper. No matter what brand you’re working with, I’ve got you covered!

Client 1: Blonde to Copper 

Let's start with our first transformation: taking a bright blonde to a stunning Level 7 orange copper. Blondes can be a fun challenge because of their light base and tendency to have unwanted undertones. Formula: Use a Level 7 copper-gold mix. Depending on the brand, you could mix 7.43 (copper-gold) with a touch of 7.44 (intense copper) to add more vibrancy. Use a 20-volume developer to ensure the colour deposits well without too much lift. But first, you might need to fill the blonde hair if it’s lighter than Level 9.

Client 2:  Level 2 Brownish Black to Copper 

When transforming a Level 2 brownish black to a rich Level 7 copper, can be challenging due to the significant lift required, but with the right approach, it’s achievable. Formula: For this transformation, use a high-lift copper colour. I recommend a mix of a high-lift copper (e.g., 12.43) with a 30 or 40-volume developer, depending on the hair’s condition and desired lift.

Client 3: Level 5 Dark Brown to Copper 

This level requires moderate lifting and careful toning.

Formula: Use a Level 7 copper (7.4) mixed with a 30-volume developer to achieve the necessary lift and deposit the vibrant copper tones. For clients with longer than 5-6 weeks of regrowth or virgin hair, you’ll need to mix a colour up that is lighter and brighter for the mid-lengths to avoid root glow or hot roots. I’d use 7.4 and 12%.

Client 4: Level 7 to Level 7 Copper 

For those already at Level 7, achieving a vibrant copper is more about tonal adjustment than lifting. This makes the process simpler but still crucial for getting that perfect shade.

Formula: Use a pure Level 8 Copper with a 20-volume developer to deposit the colour effectively.

For extra vibrancy, add a custom copper or orange toning treatment at the basin to boost the tone.

Client 5: Darker Red to Copper 

Finally, let’s transform a darker red to a stunning Level 7 copper. This involves shifting the tone rather than significant lifting.”

Formula: If your Darker Red is a buildup of semi or demi-permanent colour, you’ll need to mix up blue powder bleach and 10 vol to apply on wet hair. This is something I teach in my online course. I love Basin Balayge for customising redheads and for lifting out darker reds and banding to achieve copper.

Using a gloss or glaze with copper tones as a final step can enhance the shine and longevity of the colour.

 Listen to episode 172 of the Colour Kristina Talks Podcast to to learn the 5 must-know Copper Formulas for every brand.