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Episode 51

Steal this approach for Base Breakers (it works!!)

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What I'll be talking about

In this episode, we’re talking about Base Breakers and Lightening Toners. You probably already rate them or hate them & I want you to revisit this haircolour tool with new eyes. It’s time to pull up to the bumper baby, and fall in love with tint toners that lift! 

 

Have you ever heard the hairdresser lingo “Base Breaker” or ” Base Bump”? I don't know about you, but I sure don't want anything put on my hair that has the word “Breaker” in the definition or technique name 👀 

​Clients don't want to hear the word “Base Breaker”, which is why I call this service a “Brightening Toner” – Kristina Russell, Master Haircolourist

I use Base Bumps or Brightening Toners on so many clients, both in colour correction services and after classic blonde foil highlights or balayage to specific zones or applied as a global colour on wet hair. Some would say I love them because I do them so much in the salon, but that wasn’t always the case because when they are misunderstood your results can be too warm and fade with undesirable warmth. I used to think I don’t want to do tint toners or Base Bumps because they just make hair brassy, but that’s actually not always the case.

I want to invite you to revisit Base Breakers like I needed to with open eyes or discover them for the first time. All Hairdressers must understand that Breaking the Base is a necessary tool to know how to use for customised professional haircolour for your clients.

Before

After

Show notes for the podcast episode 51

steal this approach for base breaking hair (it works)

Base Breakers can be painted on so many clients, both in colour correction services and after classic blonde foil highlights or balayage to specific zones, or applied as a global colour on wet hair. In this Hairdresser podcast, we’re talking about Base Breakers aka “Bumping the Base” and “Lightening Toners”. You probably already rate them or hate them & I want you to revisit this haircolour tool with new eyes. It’s time to pull up to the bumper baby, and fall in love with tint toners that lift!

Let’s start with how to describe a Base Breaker to a client – ​I like to create a name for a technique that sounds delicious, enticing and desirable. Ditch the words Base Breaker and replace it with Brightening Toner or Lift and Tone or Sparkletastic. Anything but Base Breaker! 

Some of you might be thinking what is a Base Breaker? So let’s cover that before diving any deeper on this topic. A Base breaker is a permanent haircolour service that is usually a combination of an oxidative tint with 10 vol or 20 vol peroxide.

 

Brightening Toners are suitable for when you want;

​✔️ 1 shade lift

​✔️ Brighter Base or subtly Lighter Natural Base

​✔️ Less Contrast between fresh foils or Balayage and the natural hair

​✔️ Strawberry or Hollywood Glamour like my model in the blog photos

​✔️ “Naturally lighter” bases for those clients dying to be blonde

​✔️ Contemporary Grey Coverage to lift natural and do nothing to the greys

​✔️ Lightening Toners are fast to apply and fast to lift, so they're great for Blondes that are seeking an Express service

​✔️ Most brands have suitable options that can lift 1-2 shades in 10-20 minutes 

Brightening Toners are NOT suitable for when you want;

​✔️ More than 1 shade lift

​✔️ Cool Natural Base that is 1 or more shades lighter or darker than the clients natural base level

​✔️ Darker or more noticeable texture in the hair after fresh foils or Balayage

​✔️  Not suitable for Scandanavian Mousey or Ash Blonde requests, however Base Breakers are great on natural Level8-9 Scandanavian blondes that want their hair to be brighter

​✔️  Not suitable for clients that want to go several shades lighter than their natural without  any warmth exposed  23:35

​✔️ Not suitable for complete grey coverage on blondes and clients that are a level 8 or lighter, but they can work so well to blend the greys by lifting the natural and the warmth exposed detracts from the wiry textured ash whites and greys. It can be a great solution for brightening and blending greys for clients with 10-30% greys scattered in their hair

​✔️ Not suitable for all clients if they have sensitive skin or sensitised hair. When I apply Base Breakers on wet hair after a lightning service I don’t shampoo beforehand to avoid stimulating the scalp or opening the pores of the skin. I rinse the bleached or tinted foils or balayage paint out of the hair thoroughly and then apply the base breaker. I don’t shampoo until I have rinsed out the Base Breaker. Always do a spot test and test strand when making colour changes for your clients to ensure predictable and safe results

 

Listen to this podcast to LEARN MORE about the 3 biggest benefits of using Base Breakers:

  1. They are F-A-S-T !!
  2. When used correctly they can lift natural and some permanent colours without banding
  3. They can permanently brighten dull Blondes, Brunettes and Redheads (both natural and coloured heads of hair)

Links and resources

$

link to @colourkristinatalkspodcast

$

link to kristina russell facebook page

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