Episode 26

How to remove Direct Dye without Bleach

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What I'll be talking about

Have you ever wondered if you can remove direct dyes without using bleach? In this episode of the Colour Kristina Talks Podcast (for hairdressers), we answer that question.

I share my top 5 tips for removing direct dye from the hair before you even consider grabbing for bleach (plus I expose the truth about why bleach should not be your go-to solution)!

Show notes for episode 26 of the podcast

Personally I have worn almost every colour of the rainbow on my own hair and have changed things up a lot. This means I have painted it, bleached it, shaved it, cut it, bleached it, painted it with direct dyes and so the saying goes… rinse, sleep, repeat.  In my 20+ years as a Creative Colourist I have also painted 1000’s of head neons, vivids and pastels for hair shows, exhibitions or photo shoots as well as my bold artistic clientele in Sydney Australia.

Direct Dye colour molecules change shape with bleach and attach themseves to the hair, making it impossible to remove with bleach. Let me break it down for you:

  • I learnt this whilst working for an aussie direct dye brand – I toured their lab and taught across Australia for them several years ago. I did this to learn more about pigments and colour theory.
  • The round Colour colour molecule changes from a sphere (or round shape) to a crystallised molecule (or snow flake shape). This does not easily remove or rinse away from the hair, and in fact sticks by latching on to the hair thus making it near impossible to remove the dye.
  • Bleach is not the first option or go to !!  So this could be a new saying – If in doubt DON'T BLEACH IT OUT!!

Here are 5 things to try (before bleaching) when removing direct dyes

1. Asprin or dissolvable Vitamin C mixed in water

2. Shampoo applied to dry hair and processed under heat 5-20 minutes – opens cuticle more deeply than a standard wash and rinse process.

3.  Clear tint (or blonding cream) mixed with 3% or 6% – always test patch this first

4. Malibu Crystals Direct Dye Remover mixed with water

5. (if you know what brand the direct dye was) Several direct dye brands have dedicated Colour Removers or Reducers. Check with your supplier and follow manufactueres instructions.

Learn how to test strand and 5 hot tips to remove direct dye in episode 26 of the Colour Kristina Talks Podcast.

Links and resources

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link to my insta @colourkristina

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link to @colourkristinatalkspodcast

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listen to ep 25 on colour corrections

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listen to episode 20 on color mapping

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