Learn How to Fill Hair for Cool, Natural and Warm Results when going darker

Would you like to feel confident to dye hair darker for Cool, Natural or Warm results? So many Hairdressers only know how to fill with red and then wonder why all their clients complain their hair looks red…. so, let me help you with that! I have solutions for these problems faced by hairdressers everyday in the salon.

This episode is all about solving the challenge of dying your clients hair darker with confidence. After years of unsatisfactory results, I decided there had to be more options than just filling with red. Listen to learn my exact process for going darker in-salon colour corrections.

Show notes for episode 35

let's chat colour corrections and how to dye darker

I absolutely love colour correction. And I know that the 2 words colour correction are enough to send shivers down the spine of many newbie hairdressers and experienced hairdressers because it can be very daunting, especially if a client springs the request on you unexpectedly. That’s why I like to break it down into problems and solutions… and sometimes there is one problem needing one solution, but usually there are 3 or more problems on the one head all needing to be solved with a solution. That’s the key! One step at a time.

This episode is all about solving the challenge of dying your clients hair darker with confidence. And to do that, we need to discuss filling the hair. There are 3 methods that you can use for filling hair.

1. You can fill the hair with direct dye or colour conditioner
2. You can apply a tint or oxidate colour onto the hair and then comb off and paint your 2nd layer over it
3. You can also fill hair before dying it darker with semi or demi permanent colours. 

Let’s start at the beginning. You need to fill hair if you are going 2 or more levels darker. That is a colour principle that you need to memorise and work with whenever you need to. Let me break it down for you. 

• If you are only going one shade darker – no filling is required
• If you are going 3-4 levels darker – you need to fill 2-3 shades darker
• And if you are going darker than 4 levels darker you will need to do a few layers of colour

I was taught to fill with red. Always. Now let me tell you why this doesn’t work.

• Filling with red gives you a red brown result
• Filling with red means you need to be aiming for a level 5 or darker. 
• Filling with red hair is only a great idea if you want a reddish result.

 I like to fill with Gold. And this shocks or scares hairdressers at first. I want you to really think about undertones and the levels. Know your numbers and paint accordingly.

• Imagine a client that is going from a level 9-10 blonde to a level 7 light brown. Do you think they would want a red level 7 or when a client says I want my hair to look like my natural roots, if they are an ashy or mousey natural level 7 I tend to think they don’t want to see any warmth.
• Gold lives in the hair from level 7 -10, which is why it is worth considering to fill with.  7orange gold, 8 gold, 9 Pale yellow

Sometimes you will need to fill more than once. If you are trying to go 4-6 shades darker this is highly likely.

I suggest you still fill for your target level. This means if you are going from a level 8 caramel to a level 4 chocolate brown you need to fill hair with a red and brown level 5. Then process and dry off to reassess. Then choose the next 1 or 2 colours based on what the hair look like. Remember problems and solutions… if it is too red the solution will be a green brown for the next step, or if it is too orangey use a blue based ash in the next colour… and if it’s gone green oh well don’t panic. Think about it and solve the problem. Refer to the colour wheel.

Need some help to determine the best formulas and strategies for colour corrections?

• Scroll below to find all my helpful resources and links, including a free ebook on colour corrections and a free online haircolour masterclass for hairdressers on how to achieve hot roots and banding with redheads.