Hair colour fundamentals get taught to us as Hairdressers very early in our career and sometimes this knowledge gets lost when trends come and go. Personally I don’t think that knowing how to get even predictable results when tinting or applying global colours will ever be out of fashion. Because it’s a classic. And it is classic colour theory 101…. So why does it confuse so many of us when we have a client arrive at the salon with long roots?

In my 20+ years as an Industry Educator that travels all over the world presenting at main stage shows with dynamic support teams or teaching private small team trainings I am asked one thing more than any other question….

And that question is – “How do I approach long roots to get an even result? Want to know my answer? Yes, of course you do! 

Show notes for Episode 29

HOT TIPS FOR LONG ROOTS

Tint or Global Colour retouches with permanent dye would be done within 4-7 weeks. This depends on a few key factors such as,

• How fast the hair grows
• How grey the client is and whether it is a coverage colour or not – I have some that come every 3 weeks for a hairline tint for example
• Can also depend on whether the natural colour is similar to the artificial colour or several shades lighter or darker plus other factors such as fade, lifestyle, home maintenance and other factors.

There are 2 ways to approach Long Roots or a Virgin Tint. Before we break it down I want to share what determines a Long Root. It is anything longer than where the heat band can help the colour to process. Usually if a client has left their visit for 8 weeks or longer you could be at risk of banding if you don’t consider a Virgin Tint approach. 

• I want you to do something for me. Hold your hand on your head. Go on do it! Ok great. Now hold it a little further away from your scalp until you can’t feel the heat from your body. That’s the heat band. Sometimes it is good to have a little refresher like that.
• The only time I might ignore this virgin root theory I am about to share is if I am going darker with a 10vol tint and lowlight approach, but let’s save that for a future episode because that’s a whole other conversation.

Traditional approaches to virgin tint application should give you an even result but it can get messy. For this approach:

• 1. Decide on your root formula but don’t paint the roots
• 2. Create a mixture of the root formula with a lighter or higher peroxide and paint midband and ends first
• Then go mix the root mix and go back in and paint the roots. Set timer.
• PROS and CONS – messy, works, hard to guess the processing time for ends etc, takes longer

Modern approaches to virgin tint application will always give you an even result and is my absolute go-to favourite secret sauce approach to tinting. And you know that I do a lot of reds, coppers and strawberry blondes… and yes you guessed it, those are all tints! So trust me I use this approach daily for hair colour success. Let me share it with you:

• Step 1. Analyse the hair
• STep 2. Decide on final look and formulate the roots to achieve your vision
• Step 3. Paint colour on roots
• STep 4. Immediately mix another bowl of colour that is lighter and brighter (this is explained in depth in the podcast episode , so make sure you listen to learn this!)
• Step 5. Paint the midlengths and ends colour on. Set timer for manufacturers instructions from the last brush stroke.
• PROS and CONS – This is so much neater and easier to predict timing for processing. The cons that you can get a little messy (like all colours) when applying the ends. I suggest to use a hairpainting board to keep neat and wrap hair in anchor foils up and away from the neck. I will share images of a Foil Clip in my instagram this week and keep your eyes peeled for some of my Glitter Colour Board videos in action sharing how to keep as neat as possible when painting hair.