Formulating Cool Reds for Hairdressers: Cherry, Berry & Burgundy Hair Colour

Cool-toned reds like Rihanna’s cherry and SZA’s berry have become some of the most requested shades in the salon. But they’re also some of the trickiest to get right. If you’ve ever had a client bring in a picture of a deep, cool-toned red and wondered how to make it happen, this episode is for you. I’m walking you through everything from when to pre-lighten to how to mix the perfect formula for these shades.

By the end of this episode, you’ll know exactly when to pre-lighten, how to mix the shades, and how to keep them vibrant and looking salon-fresh for longer.

Show notes for episode 191

Understanding when to pre-lighten and when to apply colour directly is key to achieving those rich, cool-toned reds. Let’s break it down:

If your client has natural level 5-6 hair, you can often skip pre-lightening and apply the colour directly. The right mix of red and violet will help you avoid warmth and give you that vibrant, rich tone without the need for lightening.

However, for natural levels 3-4, you’re probably going to need to pre-lighten to get the depth and richness you’re after. Without lifting those darker shades, you risk getting a murky, overly warm result. And if there’s existing colour—whether it’s box dye or old tint—you’ll likely need some lifting for vibrancy to show through.

As for pre-lightening, there are specific undertones you should be aiming for depending on the shade:

• • Cherry Red: A level 7 undertone with warm gold enhances richness.
  • Deep Berry Burgundy: Lift to a cooler level 7-8 for a neutral violet base.
  • Vivid Red: A level 9 clean blonde works best for high-impact results with direct dyes.

Formulas for Cherry, Burgundy & Berry Reds

The secret to achieving those iconic cherry, burgundy, and berry reds lies in getting the mix just right. It’s all about balancing red and violet, but it’s a delicate dance to avoid warmth or dullness.

For cherry red (true red), I love to work with a level 5 base and use a balanced mix of violet and red. This helps prevent any orange tones from creeping in while still delivering that vibrant, true red hue.

For a cool-toned burgundy, start with a level 4-5 base and use a strong violet mix to neutralise any warmth while adding depth to the shade.

If you want something a bit more dimensional, berry mahogany works wonderfully with a level 6 base and just a touch of copper or gold. This creates a rich, multidimensional tone without going flat.

As for direct dyes, these work wonders on level 9-10 hair to create those vivid berry and cherry reds. And if you’re looking for extra longevity, layering direct dyes over permanent tint can be a game-changer.

How to Keep These Shades Long-Lasting & Vibrant

Keeping cherry, burgundy, and berry shades vibrant can be a bit of a challenge, but with the right aftercare, you’ll be able to extend their life.

To prevent reds from going flat, layering toners and glosses is essential. I recommend using MUVO Wild Berry Toning Shampoo for clients to maintain vibrancy at home. And to help minimise fading, encourage your clients to use colour-protecting shampoos and limit washing. Pro tip: getting your clients to avoid excessive water exposure and to skip the pool can make a huge difference.

For refreshing those reds at home, you can have clients mix direct dye into their favourite moisturising treatment for a quick custom refresher. If they don’t have access to direct dyes, evo’s Fabuloso is a great option for mixing up a custom blend to maintain colour.

PRO TIPS for BERRY RED HAIR COLOURS:

Here’s what you need to know about achieving those stunning cherry, burgundy, and berry reds:

• Pre-lighten only when necessary—aim for levels 7-8 for deep berry tones and level 9 for vivid reds.
• Balance your formulas—red and violet should work in harmony to avoid warmth and dullness.
• Layer toners and glosses—and recommend at-home care to keep those reds vibrant for longer.

Listen to episode 191 of the Colour Kristina Talks Podcast to learn how to formulate, apply, and maintain the perfect cherry, burgundy, and berry reds!