4 Lowlight Techniques Every Hairdresser Needs to Know

There’s also several Freehand techniques for adding dimension or depth back into the hair which works well, such as Zone Toners or painting a semi-permanent colour between foils. However, as you’ve probably noticed those options can tend to wash out over time without any visible texture left behind.

I was taught that there’s only one Lowlight Formula that you will ever need to know & it’s designed to deposit darker colour into hair and fill it in one process when Lowlighting.

Show notes for episode 187

In my multi-award-winning career as a Hair Colourist and Educator, I've discovered there are only four lowlight formulas you'll ever need to know. These formulas are designed to deposit darker colour into the hair and fill it in one process when low lighting. This approach works across various colour ranges and has been tried and tested on thousands of heads with consistent success. Having worked on clients for 30 years, I've relied on these four formulas for successful colour corrections.

These are the only 4 lowlights you’ll ever need to know as a hairdresser:

1. The Classic Lowlight: Reintroducing Depth and Dimension.

The Classic Lowlight formula is perfect for adding depth and dimension back into the hair. This formula combines natural tones at the target level with a gold tint, mixed with 3% developer. It's ideal for clients who want a subtle, natural look.

1. The Cool Down Lowlight: Tackling Brassy Orange Tones.

The Cool Down Lowlight is designed to combat orange or brassy tones. This formula includes natural tones and blue to neutralise orange or green to combat red at the target level, mixed with 3% developer.

1. The Grey Coverage Lowlight: Contemporary Coverage.

The Grey Coverage Lowlight is a personal favourite for clients seeking contemporary grey coverage with low commitment. This formula uses advanced grey coverage double naturals mixed with 6% developer, tailored to the client's needs.

1. The Dimensional Redhead Lowlight.

The Dimensional Redhead Lowlight is ideal for redheads, coppers, and strawberry blondes who seek a natural and vibrant look. Natural redheads usually have a variety of tones—about five different colours in their hair—compared to brunettes who typically have up to three. This lowlight technique adds dimension and depth, preventing the “browning out” effect that can dull vibrant reds and coppers.

PRO TIPS FOR LOWLIGHTING

• Perform a Test Strand: Always test the colour on a small section of hair to check the result. This helps prevent unwanted outcomes and allows adjustments before applying to the entire head.
• Choose the Right Type of Colour: Use demi-permanent colour for a natural look with minimal damage, semi-permanent for temporary changes, and permanent colour for long-lasting results.
• Avoid Overlapping: Be careful not to overlap lowlights on previously coloured hair that is damaged to prevent uneven tones.
• Watch for Porosity: Hair porosity affects colour absorption. Highly porous hair may require a filler or pre-treatment to ensure even colour distribution.

Listen to episode 187 of the Colour Kristina Talks Podcast to learn the 4 Lowlight Techniques Every Hairdresser Needs to Know